May 14th. Mosquitoes and ants chased us from the river bank before two in the morning. We thought that ants could not climb the ropes on which we hung our hammocks; but whether this was inexact, or whether they fell on top of us from branches, we struggled to rid ourselves of these annoying insects. The more we advanced the narrower the river became. Its banks were so muddy that Bonpland could only reach the trunk of a Carolinea princeps covered with enormous purple flowers with extreme effort. This tree is the most beautiful in these jungles.

The location of the town of Santa Cruz is similar to La °, the busiest port in the province of Caracas. The heat is excessive in both places, but Santa Cruz is sadder. On a deserted sandy beach, houses of a dazzling white with flat roofs and windows without panes lie close to a rocky cliff stripped of vegetation. A fine stone quay and public walk planted with poplars are the only attraction in that monotonous picture. From Santa Cruz the peak seems far less picturesque than it does from the port of Orotava. There a smiling and richly cultivated plain contrasts with the wild appearance of the volcano. From the groves of palm and banana trees on the shore to the region of strawberry trees, laurels and pine the volcanic rock is covered with luxuriant vegetation. It is easy to see why the inhabitants of the beautiful climates of Greece and Italy thought they had discovered one of the Fortunate Isles on the western part of Tenerife. The eastern Santa Cruz side is everywhere marked with sterility.

On the 8th of July a sailor, near death, recovered his health in circumstances worthy of relating. His hammock had been strung in such a way that between his face and the ceiling there was not more than 10 inches. In such a position it was impossible to administer the sacraments; according to the Custom on Spanish ships the Last Sacrament has to be brought down lighted by candles, followed by the crew. For this reason they had to take the sailor to a more airy place near the hatchway where they had made a little berth with flags and canvas. The man would stay there until his death. But hardly had he passed from an asphyxiating, noxious and humid atmosphere to the open air than he gradually began to recover from his lethargy. His convalescence began the day they moved him out from the middle deck. As is common in medicine the same facts are quoted in support of diametrically opposed systems; this recovery confirmed our doctor's ideas about bleeding and evacuation. We soon felt the fatal effects of this treatment and longed to reach the coast of America.