The missionary from the Raudales looked after the preparations for our journey rather too well. He worried that there might not be enough Maco and Guahibo Indians on hand who knew the labyrinth of small canals and rapids that form the raudales and cataracts, so at night he put two Indians in the cepo, that is, they were tied to the ground and fastened together between two pieces of wood with a padlock. In the morning we were awoken by the shouts of a young Indian who was being brutally beaten with a whip of manatee skin. His name was Zerepe, an extremely intelligent Indian who later served us well, but at the time refused to travel with us. He had been born in the Atures mission; his father was from the Maco tribe and his mother from the Maypure; he had run off to the jungle (al monte) and lived with wild Indians for years. He had learned several languages, and the missionary used him as an interpreter. Not without difficulty did we obtain his pardon. 'Without severity, we were told, 'you would get nothing'.

Days passed quickly in the Capuchin convent in the Caripe mountains, despite our simple but monotonous life. From sunrise to sunset we toured the forests and mountains near by looking for plants, and have never collected so many. When the heavy rain stopped us travelling far we visited Indian huts and the communal conuco, or attended the nightly meetings when the alcaldes handed out the work for the following day. We did not return to the convent until bells called us for meals in the refectory with the monks. At dawn we sometimes accompanied them to the church to attend doctrina, that is, religious classes for Indians. It was hard explaining dogma to people who hardly knew Spanish. The monks are almost completely ignorant of the Chaima Indian language, and the resemblance of sounds between the languages muddles the poor Indians so that strange ideas arise. One day we witnessed a missionary struggling to explain to his class that invierno, winter, and infierno, hell, were not the same thing, but as different as hot and cold. The Chaima Indians know winter only as the rainy season, and imagine that 'the white's hell' is a place where the evil are exposed to horrific rainstorms. The missionary lost his temper, but it was useless; the first impression caused by the almost identical words persisted; in the Indians' minds the images of rain and hell could not be separated.

The harbors of Ferrol and La Coruña both communicate with the samebay, so a ship driven by foul weather towards the coast may anchor ineither, according to the wind. Such an advantage is invaluable where thesea is almost always rough, as it is between Capes Ortegal and Finisterre, the promontories Trileucum and Artabrumof ancient geography. A narrow passage, flanked by perpendicular graniterocks, leads to the extensive bay of Ferrol. No port in Europe offers suchan extraordinary anchorage, from its very inland position. The narrow and tortuous passage by which vesselsenter this port has been opened, either by the pounding of waves or thereiterated shocks of very violent earthquakes. In the New World, on thecoasts of New Andalusia, the Lagunadel Obispo is formed exactly like the port of Ferrol. The most curiousgeological phenomena are often repeated at immense distances on the surfaceof different continents; and naturalists who have examined different partsof the globe are struck by the extreme resemblances observed in the fracturing of coasts, in the sinuositiesof the valleys, in the appearance of mountains, and in their distributionby groups. The accidental concurrence of the same causes must everywherehave produced the same effects; and amidst the variety of nature an analogy of structure and form is observedin the arrangement of inanimate matter, as well as in the internalorganization of plants and animals.

The moment the sticky sap of the kiracaguero tree is poured into the poisonous and concentrated liquid, kept boiling, it blackens and coagulates to become rather like tar or a thick syrup. This mass is the curare that is sold inside crescentia fruit; but as its preparation is in the hands of a few families, first-class curare from Esmeralda and Mandavaca is sold at high prices. When dried this substance looks like opium, but it attracts humidity if exposed to air. It tastes agreeably bitter, and Bonpland and I have often swallowed little bits. There is no danger as long as you make sure your gums and lips are not bleeding. The Indians regard curare taken by mouth as an excellent stomachic. The way the poison is made is rather similar everywhere, but there is no certainty that different poisons sold under the same name in the Orinoco and Amazon are identical or from the same plant.

The Aragua valleys form a basin, closed between granitic and calcareous mountain ranges of unequal height. Due to the land's peculiar configuration, the small rivers of the Aragua valleys form an enclosed system and flow into a basin blocked off on all sides; these rivers do not flow to the ocean but end in an inland lake, and thanks to constant evaporation lose themselves, so to speak, in the air. These rivers and lakes determine the fertility of the soil and agricultural produce in the valleys. The aspect of the place and the experience of some fifty years show that the water-level is not constant; that the balance between evaporation and inflow is broken. As the lake lies 1, feet above the neighboring Calabozo steppes, and 1, feet above sea-level, it was thought that the water filtered out through a subterranean channel. As islands emerge, and the water-level progressively decreases, it is feared the lake might completely dry out.

May 14th. Mosquitoes and ants chased us from the river bank before two in the morning. We thought that ants could not climb the ropes on which we hung our hammocks; but whether this was inexact, or whether they fell on top of us from branches, we struggled to rid ourselves of these annoying insects. The more we advanced the narrower the river became. Its banks were so muddy that Bonpland could only reach the trunk of a Carolinea princeps covered with enormous purple flowers with extreme effort. This tree is the most beautiful in these jungles.

The location of the town of Santa Cruz is similar to La °, the busiest port in the province of Caracas. The heat is excessive in both places, but Santa Cruz is sadder. On a deserted sandy beach, houses of a dazzling white with flat roofs and windows without panes lie close to a rocky cliff stripped of vegetation. A fine stone quay and public walk planted with poplars are the only attraction in that monotonous picture. From Santa Cruz the peak seems far less picturesque than it does from the port of Orotava. There a smiling and richly cultivated plain contrasts with the wild appearance of the volcano. From the groves of palm and banana trees on the shore to the region of strawberry trees, laurels and pine the volcanic rock is covered with luxuriant vegetation. It is easy to see why the inhabitants of the beautiful climates of Greece and Italy thought they had discovered one of the Fortunate Isles on the western part of Tenerife. The eastern Santa Cruz side is everywhere marked with sterility.