San Fernando is infamous for its suffocating heat throughout most of the year. This western part of the llanos is the hottest because the air from all the arid steppes reaches here. During the rainy season the heat of the llanos increases considerably, especially in July when the sky is covered with cloud. The thermometer reached 39. in the shade.

Wedid not feel like prolonging our stay in Provence until the spring. Thecountryside, and especially the climate, were a delight, but the sight ofthe sea continuously reminded us of the failure of our plans. During a tripwe made to Hyères and Toulon we came across the frigate La Boudeuse, bound for Corsica, whichhad been under the command of Bougainville 5 during his world voyage. This famous navigator had been particularly kindto me during my stay in Paris while I prepared to join CaptainBaudin. I cannot describe the impression that this ship, which had carriedCommerson to the Pacific, had on me. There are moments in our lives whenpainful feelings mingle with our experiences.

While on the spot I sketched a view (17) of the crater's interior edge as it is seen on the descent through the eastern wall's breach. Nothing is more striking than the superimposition of these lava strata, which reveals similar sinuosities to the calcareous rock of the Alps. These enormous ledges, sometimes horizontal and sometimes sloping or undulating, reminded us that long ago the entire mass had flowed, and that a combination of disruptive causes determined a particular flow. The Crest of the wall exhibits the same strange ramifications we find in coke. The northern edge is the highest. Towards the south-west the wall has considerably subsided and an enormous amount of scoria seems glued to the outer edge. On the west the rock is perforated, and through a wide opening you can see the sea and horizon. Perhaps the force of the steam broke through here just when the lava overflowed from the crater.

In the missions there are a few villages where families belong to different tribes, speaking different languages. Societies composed of such heterogeneous elements are difficult to govern. In general, the padres have settled whole tribes, or large parts of them, in villages not far from each other. The Indians see only those of their own tribe, for lack of communication and isolation are the main aims of missionary policy. Among the tamed Chaimas, Caribs and Tamanacs racial characteristics are retained if they are allowed to keep their respective languages. If man's individuality is reflected in his dialects, then these in their turn influence thoughts and feelings. This intimate link between language, national character and physical constitution ensures the differences and idiosyncrasies of the tribes, which in turn constitutes an unending source of movement and life at the mental level.

Apart from its exceptionally fresh climate the Caripe valley is also famous for the great cueva, or Guàcharo grotto. (57) In a country so given to the marvelous, a cave that gives birth to a river, and is inhabited by thousands of nocturnal birds whose fat is used for preparing the food in the monastery, becomes an unending topic of discussions and arguments. Hardly has a foreigner disembarked at Cumanà than he hears such talk about the Araya eye stones, the Arenas father who breast-fed his child, and the Guàcharo grotto said to be several leagues long, that he soon gets fed up. A keen interest in nature is maintained everywhere where society has no life, or lives in sad monotony, and things are seen in simple ways that do not stimulate curiosity.