After the blacks I was interested in the number of white criollos, who I call Hispano-Americans, (70) and those whites horn in Europe. It is difficult to find exact figures for such a delicate issue. People in the New World, as in the Old, hate population censuses because they think they are being carried out to increase taxation. The number of white criollos may reach some 200, to 210, people. (71)

We visited the Cayo Bonito, which deserves its name (pretty) as it is covered with lush vegetation. On a layer of sand and shells 5 to 6 inches thick rises a forest of mangroves. From their shape and size they look from afar like laurels. What characterizes these coral islands is the wonderful Tournefortia gnaphalioides of jacquin, with silvery leaves, which we found here for the first time. This is a shrub some 4 to 5 feet high that gives off a pleasing scent. While we were botanizing our sailors looked for lobsters among the rocks. Irritated at not finding any they took revenge by climbing into the mangroves and slaughtering young alcatras nesting in pairs. This alcatras builds its nest where several branches meet, and four or five nest on the same trunk. The younger birds tried to defend themselves with their long beaks, while the older ones flew above our heads making hoarse, plaintive cries. Blood streamed from the trees for the sailors were armed with long sticks and machetes. We tried to prevent this pointless cruelty but sailors, after years at sea, enjoy slaughtering animals. The ground was littered with wounded birds struggling against death. When we arrived on the scene it was strangely silent, as if saying, 'man has passed this way'.